A jewelry box at an estate sale is one of the highest-potential finds a reseller can encounter — and one of the most dangerous to get wrong. The difference between a $3 piece of silver-colored metal and a $300 piece of sterling silver is a tiny stamp that most people walk right past.
This guide teaches you to read the marks that matter, understand what they mean, and make fast, confident decisions at sales without getting burned.
First rule of jewelry: Never assume. A piece that looks like gold may be gold-filled or gold-plated. A piece that looks like silver may be nickel silver (which contains no silver at all). The mark tells the truth — appearance lies.
The Most Important Marks to Know
925 or STERLING — This is the most important mark in silver. It means the piece is 92.5% pure silver — solid sterling, not plated. A sterling mark combined with a recognized maker's mark is your best-case scenario at a sale. Look for it stamped inside rings, on clasps of necklaces and bracelets, on the back of brooches, and on the underside of flatware handles.
EPNS, EP, A1, ELECTROPLATE, or SILVER PLATE — These marks mean the piece has a thin layer of silver over a base metal. It's not worthless, but it's worth dramatically less than solid silver. Most EPNS pieces sell for $5–$30 regardless of how nice they look.
"German Silver," "Nickel Silver," or "Alpaca" — Despite the name, these contain zero actual silver. They're nickel alloys with a silver-like appearance. Don't overpay for these.
800, 830, or 900 — European silver purity marks. These are solid silver but at lower purity than sterling. Still valuable — typically worth 80-90% of what sterling would be for the same weight.
10K, 14K, 18K, or 417, 585, 750 — Gold karat marks. 10K = 41.7% gold, 14K = 58.5%, 18K = 75%. The higher the karat, the more valuable per gram. Always worth buying at estate sale prices if you can verify the mark is genuine.
High-Value American Silver Makers
Beyond the purity mark, a maker's mark can multiply value dramatically:
- Tiffany & Co. — "Tiffany & Co." or "T & Co." plus a sterling mark. Even simple Tiffany pieces sell for $200–$2,000+. Flatware sets can run $5,000–$20,000+
- Gorham — Lion, anchor, and G mark plus date letter. One of America's premier silver makers. Value: $100–$5,000+
- Georg Jensen — "GEORG JENSEN" in dotted oval plus "DENMARK" and 925S. Danish mid-century designs are extremely collectible. Pre-1945 pieces most valuable. Value: $200–$20,000+
- Arthur Stone — "Stone" plus a hammer mark. American Arts & Crafts handwrought silver, Gardner MA. Value: $500–$10,000+
- Kalo Shop — "Kalo" stamped, Chicago Arts & Crafts movement. Value: $300–$8,000+
Signed Costume Jewelry — Often Overlooked
Not all valuable jewelry is precious metal. Signed costume jewelry by recognized designers regularly sells for hundreds or even thousands of dollars:
- Miriam Haskell — oval cartouche signature, Russian gold finish with seed pearls and glass beads. Value: $100–$2,000+
- Trifari — crown with "T" mark, or just "Trifari." Alfred Philippe-designed pieces from the 1940s–60s are most valuable. Value: $50–$1,000+
- Eisenberg — "Eisenberg Original" or "Eisenberg Ice," large rhinestone pieces. Value: $50–$500+
- Chanel — "CHANEL" stamped on costume pieces. Value: $100–$5,000+
- Bakelite — not a maker mark but a material. Test: run under hot water, it should smell faintly like formaldehyde. Also warm to the touch unlike plastic. Bakelite bangles and brooches: $50–$3,000+
Where to Find the Marks
| Piece Type | Where to Look |
|---|---|
| Rings | Inside the band |
| Necklaces & bracelets | On the clasp or tag near the clasp |
| Brooches | Back near the hinge or pin stem |
| Earrings | Post or back of the setting |
| Flatware | Back of handle near bowl or tines |
| Hollowware | Underside of base |
| Watches | Case back, between lugs, on movement |
Always use magnification. Jewelry marks can be tiny — often 1–2mm across. A loupe or your phone's camera zoom function at close range is essential. Natural light at an angle reveals impressed marks best.
Native American Silver — A Special Category
Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi silver and turquoise jewelry is a consistently high-value category that many resellers overlook. Look for large silver settings with natural turquoise stones and hand-stamped or overlay metalwork. Signed pieces by known Native American artists are worth significantly more — Charles Loloma, Jesse Monongya, and Tommy Singer pieces regularly sell for $500–$5,000+. Unsigned but authentic pieces also hold strong value.
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